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titolo: la montagna per tutti
Gear || Climbing routes || Boulder ||


Climbing in Stura Valley:
Rocca della Colla Auta (2350) - VIA FRANCESCA

July 2006 updated
Nice route, generally of low commitment, with 2 crux pitches: the first and the fourth one.
From the top you can get down on the opposite side and continue towards the summit of the Rena Grossa by the Northern Arete (140 m - 4c).

The route is adeguately protected. However there are many possibilities for nuts and cams.

Difficulty: D / 5c (some books report TD-).

Lenght: 250 m.

Gear: two 50m. ropes (even better 55m.) - slings / cordalettes and carabiners to set belays.

Approach: Drive along the Vallone di Sant'Anna (left fork after Vinadio), to the Sant'Anna shrine.
From here the road becomes steeper and narrower for a few hundred meters up to a big boulder (wide parking lot). The Rocca della Colla Auta is just in front of the big boulder (named "masso dell'apparizione", apparition rock), following the path on the right.
After a few minutes you will reach a fork: take the path leading to the base of the Rocca. Some sport routes suitable for children have been established here.

The name of the routes is marked at the base of each route. (15 minutes from the parking lot).

View map
Ascent route

pitch 1 Great climb up a featured slab until the first bolt at about 8 m. high. Continue up a steep wall (5b/5c) and gain the belay up easier ground (45 m.)

pitch 2 Easy pitch on grassy ledges (watch out for loose rocks). The belay is at the base of a buttress. To reach it you need 55m ropes. However you can easily set an intermediate belay. (3)

pitch 3 Climb a great 10-15 meter slab and continue up easier ground to the belay (45 m - 5b)

pitch 4 The best pitch of the route. Climb an open book corner until under a roof. 5-6 m before the roof attach the climbing rope to a fixed bolt with a sling (or using 2 quick-draws) and traverse right (some exposed moves) reaching the top of a pinnacle. Ignore the cam under the roof (35 m. 5c).

pitch 5 Face climb up slab to reach some grassy ledges on the right. Traverse right and reach a tree belay (35 m. - 5a).

pitch 6 Easy climb or scramble slightly right and then left to the summit.

Scramble down into the gully on the other mountainside (possibility for a 50 m. abseil).
Following the trail down you will be back to parking lot in about 40 minutes. Hiking in the opposite direction, you will reach the base of the Northern buttress of the Cima di Rena Grossa.

on pitch 1
on pitch 1 by carlogozzi©2006-08
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