Info from D. Collino, november 2008

Hiking along the Vallone della Guercia you should already see the south-western face of Testa del Vallonetto. The routes climb up the big slabs on the left, where the rock is lighter in color and without lichens. They are 35 minutes far from the refuge.

Danilo equipping Petite Martine

Approach: Drive along the Stura valley (towards Sambuco) and take the left fork at Pianche. Pass Bagni di Vinadio and continue towards S.Bernolfo. Reach a fork with a road sign to Rif. Laus (Rif. De Alexandri Foches): take the right fork (instead of the left one as shown). After a few bends you will reach the village of S.Bernolfo. Park on the left side of the road just below the village.
Walk up the slope and turn left to take a dirt road. Take the first path on the right, entering the woods; pass the refuge (about half an hour from parking lot) and reach the lake above. The refuge is open in the Summer and only at weekends in September. Hike the dirt road rising to Collalunga up to the stream; take the trail "della Guercia" past two hairpin bends and follow the path on the left through grassy slopes.

Testa del Vallonetto - South-Western face - topo by Collino Danilo -

PETITE MARTINE (Walter Chiesa, Danilo Collino - 2007)

The route begins at the very bottom of the slab and climb along five pitches up to the big ledge of Vallonetto.
It is almost entirely friction climbing; the 4th pitch climbs an airy ridge and the 5th one leads to "Luna".

Lenght: 190 m
Difficulty: 5c max ( 5b obbl. )
Gear: standard equipment for sport climbing.

Descent: up to the 3rd belay station you can abseil back down the route. Past the 3rd belay station you need to get the top of the route and reach the top of "Luna" (follow down the faint path on the left for about 50 m up to a big tree). Abseiling down "Luna".

LUNA (Emilio Belmondo, Ezio Camisassa, Danilo Collino - 2006)

The route starts 10 m left of "Petite Martine". Four pitches lead to a big tree. Huge view of the high Vallone di Collalunga e della Guercia.
It is a sport climb with wide belay ledges.

Lenght: 150 m
Difficulty: 5b max ( 5b obbl. )
Gear: standard equipment for sport climbing.
Descent: abseiling back down the route.

View topo

South-Western face: "Route 66" - topo by Collino Danilo

ROUTE 66 (Collino Danilo Castellengo Mauro Ruberi Tonio 2011)

The path begins 100 m to the right of Petite Martine. Seven lengths of plaque with the vast panorama of "Vallonetto". The second pitch, very nice, with technique slab . Fifth and sixth: the slabs with small holds and one wide large crack to the right.

Lenght: 210 mt.
Difficulty: 6b+ max ( 6a obbl. )
Gear: standard equipment for sport climbing.
Descent: abseiling back down the route (view the drawing)

Climbing in Stura Valley: Testa del Vallonetto (q. 2482) South-Western face Petite Martine - Luna

Climbing in Stura Valley:
Testa del Vallonetto (q. 2482) South-Western face
Petite Martine - Luna