Climbing in Stura Valley:
Updated September 2007 - More info from D.Collino in October 2008
Avancorpo della Testa del Vallonetto (m. 2100 ground level)
Warm up - Occhi blu - Provare per credere
This cliff offers a trad route, a single-pitch climb and two modern routes (never harder than 5b), mostly on slabby rock with closely spaced protections.
The name of the routes is at the base of each route. Along the path you will find "Warm Up" (a single-pitch - 4c), "Occhi Blu" (5 pitches - 5b) and "Provare per credere" (5 pitches - 5a).
View of the Laus lake from the last belay
Drive along the Stura valley (towards Sambuco) and take the left fork at Pianche. Pass Bagni di Vinadio and continue towards S.Bernolfo.
Reach a fork with a road sign to Rif. Laus (Rif. De Alexandri Foches): take the right fork (instead of the left one as shown).
After a few bends you will reach the village of S.Bernolfo. Park on the left side of the road just below the village.
Walk up the slope and turn left to take a dirt road. Take the first path on the right, entering the woods; pass the refuge (about half an hour from parking lot) and reach the lake above.
The refuge is open in the Summer and only at weekends in September.
Continue along the right side of the lake until a little wooden bridge: cross the bridge and follow the faint path across loose rocks up to the base of the wall.
A few meters ahead "Sperone dei Mescaleros", a trad route that climbs a ridge. From the last belay station, traverse left on the grassy ledge and reach "Provare per Credere" to abseil off.
View topo by
- PROVARE PER CREDERE - (Camisassa Ezio Collino Danilo Cravero Alessandro - 2003)
Difficulty: D / 5b.
Length: 180 m.
Gear: Una corda da 70 m. 10 rinvii
1st pitch: Climb the easy slab towards a tree: the belay station is just above the tree. Very well bolted! (30 m. - 5a)
2nd pitch: Continue up the slab and reach a ledge (25m - 5a)
3rd pitch: Climb the slabs above. Traverse diagonally right following a faint crack to the base of a buttress (35 m - 5b)
4th pitch: Step around the ridge to the right, then follow the ridge leftwards and then back rightwards to the base of a buttress. (35 m - 5b).
5th pitch: Climb slightly left (watch out for loose rocks), then angle right to the belay past a tree. (35 m. - 5a-5b).
Descent: abseiling back down the route.
OTHER CLIMBS (info from Collino Danilo)
Danilo setting up the 4th pitch of "Occhi Blu"
WARM UP - Collino Danilo 2003
Short single-pitch just to warm you up - 15 m. - 4c
Camisassa Ezio, Collino Danilo, Tamagnone Enrico - 2003
It is a 5-pitch sport route with bolts and chain anchors.
The climb starts underneath the bunker door (the first bolt is red) and, after 5 pitches, reaches "Provare per Credere".
Lenght: 190 mt.
Difficulty: 5b max ( 5b obbl. )
Gear: standard equipment for sport climbing.
Descent: abseiling back down the route or "Provare per credere"
SPERONE DEI MESCALEROS - A.Parodi, F.Tropini - 1981
It is a classic route that starts a few meters right of "provare per credere" and follows the ridge past the staircase of the bunker.
Lenght: 200 mt.
Difficulty: 5a max
Gear: small and medium sized nuts and cams, slings
Descent: From the last belay, traverse left to reach the route "provare per credere".