BOURCET VALLEY
Per Elisa - Settore Centrale (Central Sector)
Slabs of Settore Centrale
Info June 2008 updated.
From parking lot follow the main trail for about 10 minutes and reach the Settore Centrale, with some slabby routes. The name of the routes is at the base of each route.
The first one on the right is "Per Elisa", a 6-pitch route that reaches a descent trail protected by cable and steps in the most difficult spots.
Above the top of "Per Elisa" you may continue climbing a harder route, named "Per Elisa Seconda Parte" (6c - A0 / 6a - A0).
"Per Elisa" is adequately protected (however very few possibilities for gear placements).
Fixed anchors allow 25 m abseils along the route (watch out for loose rocks).
Per Elisa: (first ascent F. Michelin, Beppe and Wanda Canepa - august 1993)
Difficulty: TD- / 6a+ max (or 5c and A0) Length: 130 m. Gear: Two 50 m. ropes, 7-8 quickdraws
Pitch 1 Climb the slab with delicate moves towards a tree on a wide ledge (20m - 5c/6a). On the left you will find the belay stations of other routes.
Pitch 2 Continue following some quartz inclusions, surmount the shelf and continue up the easier slab above. Climb a short wall and easily reach the belay (25 m - 5c - 4 bolts)
Pitch 3 Make a couple of moves up and right, then slightly left to an overhung shelf with a good horizontal crack. Climb up with a tricky move and continue more easily to the ledge above, passing on the right side of the little tree. Climb a short steep wall to the bolted anchor above. (25 m - 5c / 6a - 4 bolts)
Pitch 4 Climb an ever-steepening slab to a ledge (very lichened rock - step right). Pass on the right of a tree and climb a rock system to gain the ledge above (20m - 5c / 6a - 3 bolts).
Pitch 5 Climb a slabby wall (old piton and a bolt above) reaching a flake. Move left and continue up to the belay point (25 m - 5c)
Pitch 6 Reach the ledge above and continue up the wall, gaining the ridge (25 m - 5c/6a)
