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South-Western Ridge
Heading up pitch 1
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Info June 2008 updated
This climb ascends the South-Western Ridge to the Western buttress, starting from the base of the gendarm at the bottom of the scree gully.
(approach)
The route, established by Michelin and B.Canepa in December 1999, is a great climb, even if a bit discontinuous: 60 meter climb up easy slabs, in the middle of the route.
The route is generally well-protected with some long run-outs on the easier pitches. However there are many possibilities for medium-sized nuts and cams.
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Spigolo Sud Ovest:
Difficulty: D / max 5b.
Length: 230 m.
Gear: 2 50m twin ropes or single rope. 7-8 quickdraws - Medium-sized nuts and cams (not essential).
Pitch 1 Climb the ramp moving to the left edge on the upper part (30 m - 5b - 7 bolts). Chain.
Pitch 2 Climb off the right hand side of the ledge up a slab with a tricky move, then straight up the wall above. Move left to the edge and reach a grassy ledge - tree belay on the second tree (30 m - 5b - 6 bolts and an old piton).
Pitch 3 Continue ahead up easy slabs. Then move left to the belay point. (15-20 m - 3 - 1 bolt)
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Heading up pitch 4
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Pitch 4 This is the crux pitch. Surmount the overhang on good holds and continue up the slab above. Tree belay (20-25 m - 5b - 2 bolts and a piton)
Pitch 5 Scramble up easy slabs (3b) for about 20 meters to reach a belay tree. It is possible to continue past this first belay station, scrambling for more 25-30 m (no fixed protection) and reaching another belay tree.
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Pitch 6 Climb an easy slab to a clear vertical crack; climb up and continue up an easier slab. Follow blue signs and round a block on the right to a wide ledge (25-30 m - 5a - 2 bolts)
Pitch 7 Move slightly left to the wall. Surmount the overhang. Climb up a featured wall (good holds, but it is better to place a cam) to a belay tree. To reach the summit of the eastern buttres continue climbing for a few meters towards right (25 m - 5b - 2 bolts)
Descent: A 20-25 m. rappel at the left side of the route, to reach the gully leading to the base of the route. Crossing the gully you can reach the the routes of the other buttresses.
Consider to climb this route, rappel down to the gully and climb "Michelin-Battù" at the western buttress (130 m - 5 pitches - 5b). The first pitch is generally very wet and slippery after rains. Name of route at the base of each route.
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