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ROCCA SBARUA - CENTRALE AND BIANCIOTTO SECTORS
Via dei Torinesi (5c) and Prenota la Polenta (5b)
You can link the classic route "Via dei Torinesi" with the more recent route "Prenota la Polenta", first climbed and bolted by Giulio Scarca.
"Via dei Torinesi" begins about 2 meters to the left of "Normale" in Central Sector (signs at the base): it is a sustained and superb 3-pitch route on excellent rock leading at the top of the buttress. From here, moving left and down in a gully, you can reach the sector "Bianciotto" and the 2nd pitch of "Prenota la polenta".
Difficulty: TD- / 5C.
Length of the route:: 200 m (90+110)
Gear: some medium sized cams - 7-8 draws - 2 50m ropes
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TORINESI
Pitch 1 (5c): Climb the slab to a little roof. Surmount it using the thin vertical crack. Continue up and sligthly left to belay under a roof (35m - 4 bolts)
Pitch 2 (5b): Go out right around the roof using a crack, then diagonally left up a slab to a bolted belay on a narrow ledge. (25m - 3 bolts)
Pitch 3 (5c): Move right past the edge and then a root. Climb up a slab using a crack and exit on a wide ledge (30m - 4 bolts)
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Scramble down and left to cross the grassy gully, reaching the pitch 2 of "Prenota la Polenta" (wired cable and white bolts) near route "Manera".
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PRENOTA LA POLENTA
Follow an easy ridge to a ledge. Move right (white sign) and climb a crack to a ledge (30m - 6 bolts - 4)
Climb a short wall on the left and reach a slab: step up 50 cm and traverse left for some meters. Climb up a crack and move to the left up a slab. Reach the ledge under an overhang (35m - 7 bolts - 5b)
Traverse left and surmount two big blocks. Continue following an easy ridge and surmount another boulder.
Move right on the ledge and reach the belay (30m - 5 bolts - 3+)
Climb an easy corner on the right and a short wall on poor holds (20m - 2 bolts - 4).
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Continue scrambling up the easy slab to a narrow grassy gully on the left. Follow the faint path downhill to the start of "Via dei Torinesi" (follow first azure signs and then red and white marks - 15 min.)
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