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titolo: la montagna per tutti
Gear || Climbing routes || Boulder ||


WE SPEAK ABOUT:
ROCK CLIMBING:

ROCCA DI PERTI:
IL VECCHIO


Good technical climbing, sustained but quite easy (crux stretch: V+ if climbing a variation of pitch 1). The original pitch 1 is a VI.
A variation starting from belay station 1 avoids the crux pitch (pitch 3 - traverse - V+).
"Il Vecchio" starts before "Simonetta".

Difficulty: IV+, V+ moves.

Elevation gain: 150 m

Gear: 7-8 quickdraws, slings and 'biners for belay stations (fixed belay stations have been rebolted and provided with chain). No other gear is required.

Approach: Follow the trail leading to "lo Spigolo"; pass "lo Spigolo" and continue up to a cave (please do not use it as a toilet!!!!)
The beginning of the route is on the left side of the cave (IV); the harder pitch 1 (VI) starts more left.

PITCH 1 (IV / III +): Easily climb the edge (a little polished) and then a slab on a better rock. Pass the first belay station (chain) and continue up to another belay station (chain).
The original pitch 1 starts a few meters on the left. Climb a well bolted corner offering a few holds.

PITCH 2 (IV): Follow a vertical crack starting on the right side of the belay station up to a little tree (belay station).
You can also climb the corner on the left side of the belay station reaching directly belay station 3 (max IV) - pay attention to loose rocks and vegetiation.

PITCH 3 (V+) From the tree belay station, traverse a slab diagonally left for about 3 meters; climb up for some meters (2 bolts) and climb a long traverse left. On the first ledge you will find the belay station of the route "Gold Finger": ignore it and continue traversing left. Pass a bush and step left across a dihedral (the above mentioned variation of pitch 2) reaching a ledge where belaying.

PITCH 4 (IV + / V-): Climb a slab following a crack up to some trees on a ledge.

PITCH 5 (III): Easy climb a short slab and a stretch plenty of holds up to the top.



Descent: Reach the summit cross and following the path towards right you will reach the base in 15 minutes.

"Il Vecchio" a Perti
The route "il vecchio"




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